Aromatherapy Carrier Oil: Argan

January 21st, 2010

Ancient Argan Oil has survived since the Tertiary period (65-2,588 million years ago!), only to almost become extinct in our time, due to over grazing by goats, chopping down of trees for firewood and long, extended periods of drought.  However, UNESCO and the cooperation of the Moroccan Government have saved the day!  Together they have created a reforestation project and developed a women’s cooperative that produces Fair-Trade Argan Oil.  Money from the sales of Argan Oil are used for health care and women’s education.   And this in turn this supports their entire community.  I think this is the only aromatherapy Argan Oil which is exported.

Argan oil has been prized by the Berbers for hundreds of years for it’s cooking, medicinal and cosmetic properties.  Traditionally, undigested Argan pits were collected from goat poop, ground into a paste, and then pressed for oil.  Today, of course, it’s more sanitary.  Machines harvest and press the pits for oil and  solvent extraction is used for laboratory use.  Aromatherapy Argan oil is rich in Vitamin E, Phenols, Carotene, Squalene, and unsaturated fatty acids (80%).  A break down of percentages for fatty acids follows:  Palmitic 12%, Stearic 6%, Oliec 42.8%, Linoleic 36.8%, and Linolenic .5%.

For cooking, Argan kernels are roasted, bringing out their nutty taste.  However, for medicinal and cosmetic purposes, the seeds need to be kept raw.   Argan carrier oil is great for dry skin, psoriasis, eczema, diminishing wrinkles and scar tissue, moisturizing, softening skin, strengthening nails and repairing your hair’s split ends. It penetrates the skin easily, without leaving an oily residue.   This oil has better storage properties than olive oil and will keep for 12-18 months.  However, all this comes with a price.  Argan carrier oil is usually very expensive.  I’ve seen it as high as $50/oz.  However, I have found a site that sells a wide variety of Argan products (both roasted and raw), at a reasonable cost.  And organic to boot!  It is http://www.zamourispices.com.

Let us know about your experiences with this uncommon carrier oil!

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Aromatherapy Carrier Oil: Hazelnut

January 14th, 2010

Hazelnuts become ripe seven to eight months after pollination.  The nuts are used as culinary delights by eating them raw, roasted, or ground into a paste.  Hazelnuts can also be cold pressed for aromatherapy.    However you use them, your body will love their rich nutritional content.  They contain proteins, 9% saturated fat, 74% oleic acid (omega 9), 17% linoleic acid (omega 6), a very slight amount of omega 3,  significant amounts of thiamine, smaller amounts of Vitamin B6, other B vitamins, Vitamin E, minerals, and other antioxidant properties.

There is evidence on the isle of Colonsay, Scotland that Hazelnuts have been eaten since the Mesolithic era of 9,000 years ago.  Today, Turkey is the world’s largest producer of Hazelnuts, although they are grown in Europe, and the USA (Oregon and Washington).    Because Hazelnut refers to any species of the genus Corylus, we must not confuse Hazelnuts with their cousins the Filbert.  Although a look a like, the Filbert is usually, larger and more oval in shape.

Hazelnut Carrier Oil is great for any kind of skin treatment, especially facial oils.  It’s slightly astringent properties, help it to absorb quickly into the skin, without leaving an oily residue.  It nourishes the skin, helps to strengthen capillaries, encourages cell regeneration, stimulates circulation, and is a good sun screen.  Hazelnut carrier oil can be used with all skin types in aromatherapy, but is especially well suited for oily, acne prone skin.  It is gentle,  tonifying, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing.  It’s fine texture will leave your skin feeling smooth and silky.  I use hazelnut carrier oil in the Rejuvenating Facial Oil I sell on AromatherapyCelebrations.com.

Hazelnut Oil’s aroma is light, although nutty and sweet.  It’s color is yellow and texture thin.  Like most carrier oils, it is sensitive to heat and light and is best stored in the refrigerator to ensure that it does not go rancid.  In recommended storage conditions, it should keep for 12 months.

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Aromatherapy Carrier Oil: Rose Hip Seed Oil

January 8th, 2010

Rose Hip Seed Oil or as it is sometimes called, Rosa Mosqueta, is usually cold pressed from the seeds of a wild rose bush that grows in the Southern Andes  (Peru, Chili, and Argentina).  Although it was used by the indigenous peoples for hundreds of years, it has only been sanctified by science since 1983.

This aromatherapy carrier oil is chock full of nutrients.  It contains Retinal A, a high content of vitamin C, essential fatty acids of Omega 6 and 3, carotenoids, and flavonoids.  Rose Hip Seed Oil has a rich amber/orange color and a slightly fishy odor.  If refrigerated, it’s shelf life will be about twelve months.  It is very susceptible to heat and light fluctuations, so keep this in mind when storing it.

Rose Hip Seed Oil soaks into your skin easily without any greasy residue and is a wonderful moisturizer.  It can be used straight out of the bottle, or blended with other aromatherapy carriers in facial oils, creams, lotions, or massage oils.  Rose Hip Seed Oil’s gentleness and Ph of 5.1 makes it perfect for direct application to your hair, scalp or skin.

This aromatherapy carrier oil has many uses.  It is frequently used for healing dermatitis such as eczema, acne or psoriasis, and can also be used to heal burned skin from radiation and the sun.  Rose Hip Seed oil is  good for diminishing fine lines, wrinkles, scarring, and age spots.  It’s great for skin rejuvenation as it helps to increase skin elastin and collagen.  It’s also a good addition to nail and hair treatments, as it helps to heal brittle nails and split ends.  Put this incredible oil on at night while you sleep and you will truly get your beauty rest.  Rose Hip Seed Oil is one of the carrier oils used in my Rejuvenating Facial Oil, sold on AromatherapyCelebrations.com.

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Aromatherapy Carrier Oil: Golden Jojoba

December 31st, 2009

Although Jojoba has been used for thousands of years by indigenous tribes, it became popular in our culture in the 1970′s when whaling was banned.  Apparently, Jojoba has very similar properties to the prized oil of sperm whales.

There is a lot of  misinformation about Jojoba in aromatherapy.  Many people believe that it will clog your pores.  And I must admit I was quite confused, and avoided working with Jojoba until I did my own research on the subject.  What I found out is this.  Like everything else out there, there are several different grades of Jojoba.  The first pressing, and the best grade is Golden Jojoba.  It is so named because it is naturally golden in color.  This first pressing of the Jojoba bean will not clog your pores.  However, many in the industry will then, through solvent extraction, take those same beans and extract the remaining residue of Jojoba.  Often this residue will then be processed further and bleached.  Of course when this occurs, all of the healing properties are also removed and yes, processed Jojoba will clog your pores.  Sometimes yellow colorant will be added back into the product to make it look like the real deal.  So Buyer Beware! Know your supplier!  Golden Jojoba is more expensive than processed Jojoba, so as the adage says, You Get What You Pay For!

Golden Jojoba carrier is high in Vitamin E and has the same Ph as our skin.  It helps to balance our sebum (regulates dryness or oiliness of skin), and is great moisturizer.  It is also known to have beneficial effects on our collagen, general skin health and to clear blemishes and acne. It’s good for all skin types, but especially, aging, mature skin, for it helps diminish fine lines and wrinkles. Aside from Vitamin E, Golden Jojoba contains proteins, minerals and myristic acid which is an anti-inflammatory.  Golden Jojoba’s moisturizing properties are also beneficial for our hair, helping to repair split ends and tangles.

Because Golden Jojoba is not really an oil, but rather a wax, it has the added advantage of not staining fabric.   It penetrates skin quickly and feels smooth and silky, and non-greasy when applied.  And yes, it will stay fresh a long time; up to two years.  I use Golden Jojoba in all my everyday aromatherapy formulas, because I feel confident my products will not go rancid before or after they are purchased.

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Aromatherapy Carrier Oil: Macadamia Nut

December 24th, 2009

Packed with a high nutritional content, Macadamia nuts were eaten by the Australian Aborigines for thousands of years to supplement their diet.  Macadamia nuts have the highest amount of monounsaturated fat of any nut, (22% Omega 7, plus omega 6 and 3),  and they are rich in calcium, phosphorus, potassium, sodium, selenium, iron, thiamine, riboflavin, and niacin.  Although native to Australia, these nuts are now grown in several other countries, with the largest producers being Australia and Hawaii.

Because most species of Macadamia are toxic, only two species  (Macadamia Integnfolia and  Macadamia Tetraphylla), can be eaten or used in aromatherapy.  Most Macadamia trees are propagated by grafting,  due to rapid hybridizing in the wild.  Although this evergreen tree will bear nuts for 100 years, it must mature for seven years before it’s nuts will be  ready for harvest.

Macadamia Nut oil is great as a skin conditioner, protectant, and emollient.  It tones and regenerates mature and dry skin and helps retain your skin’s moisture.  This aromatherapy carrier oil closely resembles our skin’s sebum and has a high absorption rate.  Macadamia Nut  oil can also be used to diminish scars, and heal sunburns, minor wounds and irritations.  If stored properly, (in a cool dry place, away from heat and direct sunlight), it will keep for a period of three years.  I’m sure you’ll want to add this Australian oil to your repertoire.

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Aromatherapy Carrier Oil: Sweet Almond

December 19th, 2009

Because Almond trees are easily propagated from seed, they have been planted and used for thousands of years in the Middle East, their place of origin. From the Middle East, the seeds were carried to India, Northern Africa, and imported, to California. Today, most almond oil comes from Spain, Syria and the USA.

Almond carrier oil, used in massage and aromatherapy has a slightly sweet, nutty aroma. Although it absorbs fairly quickly into the skin, almond oil’s texture is slightly oily, and it leaves a slightly oily feeling after absorption. It’s color is clear with a tinge of yellow, and it is a good all purpose oil, and moderately priced. Almond oil is thought to be non-sensitizing and non-irritating. It is composed of 78% mono-unsaturated oleic acid (omega 9), and 17% linoleic essential fatty acids (omega 6). Almond oil is also high in Vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, D and E, and contains Magnesium and Calcium, as well.

Almond carrier oil is known for it’s emollient properties, that will leave the skin smooth and soft. It’s great moisturizing abilities help remove fine lines and wrinkles, and it has also been used to help soften cuticles, and improve hair luster.  A few drops to the scalp can also help your hair grow in strong, thick and smooth.

For use in aromatherapy, you should always use oil that has been cold pressed. Cold pressing is done by placing the almond seeds in a horizontal press, with a rotating screw, known as an expeller. The oil is squeezed from the kernel and filtered. Due to friction, the oil is heated to 70 degrees Celcius. Less suitable oils for aromatherapy are Solvent Extracted, or extracted with heat. In Hot Extraction, tremendous pressure is applied, taking the temperature up to 200 degrees Celcius. At this temperature, all the important vitamins and fatty acids are destroyed. The left over “cake” is then solvent extracted, re-heated, refined, deodorized, and bleached. Artificial color, preservatives and vitamins are then added.

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Aromatherapy Carrier Oil: Grapeseed

December 10th, 2009

Grapeseed Oil is a relatively new carrier oil in aromatherapy, as it was first introduced in the 1800′s during Napoleon’s reign in France.  At this time it was used as food and fuel for lighting.  Because only a small quantity of oil can be squeezed from a grape seed, this oil was  not usually produced until modern times.  And today, it is usually solvent extracted.  It is grown primarily in Italy, but also grown in France, Spain and Argentina.

Grapeseed oil is high in Linoleic Acid (Omega 6 fatty acid) and is a good anti-inflammatory, moisturizer, and can reduce acne and stretch marks.   It has also been known to regenerate and restructure damaged, stressed epithelium cells and remove foot odor.   Therefore, grapeseed carrier oil is often found in massage oils, sunburn repair oils, hair products, lip balms, hand creams and body hygiene products.

Grapeseed oil is also non-toxic. Because it is  slightly astringent,  it penetrates the skin easily.   Many massage therapists have long valued these properties, along with grapeseed oil’s light, greaseless texture, and non existent scent.

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Aromatherapy Carrier Oils: An Experiencial Overview

December 2nd, 2009

Over the years I have worked with a number of aromatherapy carrier oils.  In the beginning, I used the “old faithfuls” like sweet almond and grapeseed oils, and later on branched out and experimented with others.

I think the main thing I was looking for was a carrier oil that had healing properties of it’s own, yet penetrated the skin quickly.  Mentally, I  had difficulties with grapeseed oil, because I was always circumspect of the amount of pesticides it had.  In those days, organic carrier oils were pretty much nonexistent, or ungodly expensive.  Then, I found out that grapeseed oil also went rancid very quickly.  And without grapeseed, sweet almond oil is really too heavy to use.  So enter Macadamia Nut oil.  I used this carrier for quite a while for everyday aromatherapy blends.  It is lighter and penetrates the skin faster than sweet almond, however, I found that it separated and got heavier than the former in the refrigerator .  Plus, it was more difficult to find on a consistent basis.

When I decided to sell my essential oil blends to the public, I needed to do more aromatherapy carrier oil research.  Now I needed a carrier that not only penetrated the skin easily, but one that would have a longer shelf life.  I certainly didn’t want my products going rancid before or after they were purchased.  Then I found out about Golden Jojoba. This carrier is not really an oil, but rather a wax, and because of this, it has the added advantage of not staining fabric.   It is cold pressed from the Jojoba bean.  It’s Ph is very similar to our skin’s, it penetrates quickly and feels smooth and silky when applied.  And yes, it will stay fresh a long time; up to two years.  Organic Golden Jojoba, is also easily obtained at a reasonable price.  I buy from The Jojoba Company. They now sell organic and a pesticide free Golden Jojoba.  Unlike most of the books out there that insist that you mix jojoba with other aromatherapy carrier oils, I use it on it’s own for all of my everyday blends.

I’ve also experimented with many expensive carrier oils that are good for facial products.  Rose hip seed oil, borage oil, tamanu, centella, argan to name a few.  And I’m always curious about new ones as they become available.  I always love experimenting on myself before deciding whether or not to use it in my retail facial blend.

So in this next leg along our aromatic journey, I’ll be talking about the diverse selection of carrier oils that are available for you to play with.  I trust you will have as much fun reading, as I will have writing!

Let us know what your favorite carrier oil is!

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Essential Oils: Why is Quality Important?

November 20th, 2009

Essential oils (EO’s) are extremely complex in nature.  They have between 200-500 different chemical components.  And it is because of this diffuse chemical structure, that essential oils have a wide range of healing properties.  However, only high quality (EO’s) will be extremely complex.  When you use lower quality essential oils, many of the nuances associated with that oil, will no longer be there.  For instance, both high and low quality essential oils may work well topically, but  when applied subtlety (energetically), only the higher quality EO will actually work.

Adulteration is another reason to buy high quality essential oils and to know your supplier.  What are their essential oils standards?  Where are they getting their essential oils?  Are the essential oils processed at a low temperature?  All of these questions are relevant when looking for high quality oils.

It is also important to buy organic and/or wildcrafted essential oils whenever possible.  Any pesticides used when the plant were grown, will become concentrated during processing.

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Essential Oils: Should We Use Them Undiluted on Our Skin?

November 12th, 2009

This is a rather controversial topic.  In one camp we have the followers of essential oil guru Gary Young, who developed the now famous RainDrop Therapy.  And in the other one, are the clinical aromatherapists, who are dead set against using undiluted oils on your skin.  So what’s going on?

I think the first thing we must ascertain is, what are the risks? As I have said before, essential oils (EO’s) do not stay in your body very long (4-6 hours).  So putting undiluted essential oils on the body, runs the risk of liver damage.  Essential oils are also highly concentrated liquids from plants, and many of them are what you would term “hot”.  This means that when put on the skin undiluted, you run the risk of burning your client.  Even if the EO is not “hot”, there is still the risk of irritation.  And last, but certainly not least, is the risk of sensitization.   This means that by getting a huge blast of EO’s, some people may develop an allergic reaction to all EO’s.

What responsibilities do we have as practitioners? Because our clients put their trust in us, we need to be well informed about many facets of the essential oils we are using.  This usually takes years of study and/or training.  I would also hope that all practitioners keep their client’s best interests at heart and not take risks with their health.

In the 20 years I’ve been working with essential oils, my experience has been that less is more.  In the end, this is your decision to make.  But unlike ingesting EO’s, this decision includes someone else.  So choose wisely.

Please tell us your opinions about this controversial topic!

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